FREYCINET – A return – Tasmania

Sometimes you can travel the world, and return home to realise that one of the most beautiful places on the planet was on your doorstep all the time! This week I returned to such a place – Freycinet Peninsula on the east coast of Australia’s island State of Tasmania.

I have always known how beautiful it is, but my travels simply emphasise that it not simply a local legend – it really does compare well with the world’s best.

I am a Tasmanian – or a Taswegian as we are sometimes called. Though I left more than 40 years ago, I regularly return to see family and friends, and to spend time in favourite places.

Freycinet is certainly one of those. In the ‘70’s, before tourists discovered it, I would pack up my little Italian made pup tent and drive 193 kilometres there from Tasmania’s capital, Hobart, in my battered little VW bug to camp, hike and climb. Often I would go with fellow members of the Hobart Bushwalking club, hauling a 20 kilo pack on my back to trek over the saddle at the Hazards – the gloriously beautiful mountain range that crosses the peninsula. They are made of feldspar granite, with iron oxide impurities that create a pink tint, glowing red in the sun. Orange lichen covers many of the rocks accentuating the effect. Stunning, especially set against the calm crystal clear waters of Coles Bay – the principal bay in the region.

Honeymoon Bay

We would cross the Hazards to move onto other mountains in the range, or to camp at Wineglass Bay – one of Australia’s most pretty fine white sand beaches. The highest peak is Mount Freycinet – at 620 metres. Ok, not comparable to European peaks, but worth the effort to see the view. The Hazards are surrounded by crystal clear azure bays and exquisite beaches. The most famous is Wineglass, voted many times as one of the best beaches in the world. To reach it, you can join a cruise from Coles Bay or hike across the Hazards.

Currently, as my regular readers know, I am struggling to recover from a total knee replacement, so no climbing this time. I have done the cruise before, and was so sea sick once we moved into the open sea, that even the sight of a whale breaching close to the boat failed to raise my interest! This is not to say the cruise isn’t a joy. I just happened to take it on a bad weather day.

There’s plenty of wildlife too – please don’t feed them! I spotted a wobbly gong shark swimming alongside the jetty – much to close to my little toes!

With the help of a trekking stick, I did manage a few short walks this week. This one was even wheelchair friendly! Hopefully, I won’t need one anytime soon.

On this walk I did spot a tiny island just off the coast – could be a job for a lawnmower man (or woman) here! My brother suggested a one hole golf course could prove popular!

No simple tent and sleeping bag for me on this trip. Freycinet is home to several world class resorts, and we chose a hut at the oldest, Freycinet Lodge. “Some hut!” exclaimed my son when I posted photos.

Our little bush hut!

I have to admit to indulging in a little luxury – a very nicely appointed bush ‘hut’, complete with tv, luxury bathroom products, and a bar fridge stocked with complimentary locally produced goodies. Not to mention a bottle of local Pinot Noir! Tasmania is famous for its excellent reds, and this one was was superb! The young bushwalker in me would shudder at the extravagance! Light years away from my little tent and camp food.

The view from Freycinet Lodge
Freycinet Lodge (and my shadow!)

I know people of my vintage often harp on about ‘the good old days’. But Freycinet in the ‘70’s was the home to some basic holiday homes and visited mainly by serious bush walkers. We rarely saw anyone else on the tracks. And if we did, we probably knew them!

These days it is packed with tourists from around the world, and the track over the Hazards – within a National Park – is wall to wall day walkers. Many don’t look properly prepared. They are out for a Sunday stroll, some carrying little babies and toddlers. Are they in for a shock! I’m sure the local park rangers despair at times.

The last time I did venture over the Hazards track to Wineglass Bay on a visit to Tasmania, I was warned to start off before dawn or I’d find myself in a throng of people. So we got away early, and on our return walk, we faced a huge crowd surging towards Wineglass Bay. Where’s the serenity? Gone?

Never fear – there are plenty of places at Freycinet to find peace and quiet to enjoy nature at its best. And I urge anyone visiting Tasmania to include it on your itinerary for at least a few days. Honeymoon Bay is a favourite of mine. Take a few wine glasses and a vino to enjoy the sunset there on the rocks. Bliss.

Freycinet was spotted by the Dutch Explorer Abel Tasman in the 1600’s, but got his mapping wrong, thinking it was part of a string of islands. The French explorer Nicholas Baudin came along in the 1800’s, corrected the mapping error and named the Peninsula after fellow French explorer Louis de Freycinet.

I am writing this on my ipad and don’t have access to my old Freycinet photos. But I’ll add some in a few weeks.

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