^{Japan Railway’s Tadami train – a delight – and frustration plus! The Tadami is a commuter train connecting Fukushima and Niigata, and it has gained attention in Japan and internationally for its scenic route. But accessing essential detailed information from Australia about this remote regional service was challenging. Extremely so. I knew it offered spectacular views. I knew it was regularly packed with both local commuters and tourists. But it sorely tested my researching prowess to gather the nitty gritty information needed to venture into what was for me unknown territory in Japan and add it to my tour itinerary there.}

^{I heard about the Tadami late in 2022 when suddenly it seemed to emerge from nowhere to feature in Japanese online newspapers and in a dedicated programme screened on NHK TV World. It captured my interest particularly because it roughly followed a route taken in the 1800’s by my travelling icon, the British explorer Isabella Bird (her book “Unbeaten Tracks in Japan” is a great read).}

^{Bird travelled from Nikko, north of Tokyo, across to Niigata via Fukushima on foot and on horseback, tackling rough tracks across remote valleys and over mountains. The first European seen by many enroute. Her feat was extraordinary for those times.  I followed in her footsteps elsewhere in Japan on previous trips. So the Tadami gave me the opportunity to see more of what she saw -via a more easy and comfortable mode of travel! Getting on board wasn’t easy, but the adventurous ‘never give up’ spirit of Isabella Bird spurred on my efforts!}

^{Operating since the 1920’s, the Tadami train route was shortened in 2011 when heavy rain washed away many bridges on the route. Talks raged for six years between local governments wanting the full route back and JR(Japan Railways) East, preferring bus services. Finally an agreement was reached – local governments would maintain and manage the railway facilities, and JR East would run operations. The mammoth job of major repairs along the damaged route began. Then, with much fanfare in Japan and abroad (I could hear it in Australia!), the full Tadami Line was back in business on October 1, 2022.}

STUMBLING BLOCKS

^{I tried to get onboard the following month. But essential information I needed eluded me. No bookings were taken, so how could I be sure of securing seats for two, what were the departure times, how long were station stopovers en route, what was at the tiny town of Koide at the Niigata end of the track, did it have any accommodation, what train services could I link up with? I also knew nothing about the Fukushima area, or of Aizu Wakamatsu where we hoped to join the train. Nor had I ever visited Niigata prefecture.}

^{We did a computer google walk of Koide on the Niigata end of the Tadami route. It looked small, the station seemed to be rusting away, and there was a need for a good weeding! There didn’t seem to be a station shop, but we could see a drinks vending machine. Hopefully a loo too! A Japanese hotel was by the station, but we could find any information about it.}

^{I was hearing reports that the Tadami was packed to the rafters with local commuters and Japanese tourists. I made contact with one overseas tourist who made it on board, but had to stand for the whole four hours of the journey, with no seat available. At my age, and with a crook knee, that was not an option! I gave up. Anyone who knows me knows I really was up against a brick wall on this because I am a little ferret at digging out information. The idea of going to the unknown in Fukushima – only to be left standing on the platform with our suitcases, was not appealing. And could you actually take luggage on the train?}

IF AT FIRST YOU DON’T SUCCEED …

^{Last year, back for another November visit, I revisited the Tadami with renewed determination, resuming my deep computer search for information and emailing out inquires to various organisations like bullets from a machine gun.  I achieved little snippets of information, but it felt like each group involved with the Tadami thought it was someone else’s responsibility to answer this foreigner’s questions. “I’m sure JR will provide you with that information, so I probably shouldn’t tell you”. What! I emailed JR East, hitting another brick wall. “We are afraid that we cannot respond to your e-mail because this address is only for personal information related issues. Please use JR East Infoline. You can call JR East Infoline from overseas”. The email provided a telephone number. I admit that I didn’t ring it. Maybe there might have been someone with good english on the other end who could provide informative answers. But I didn’t risk it, as my phone would have been in mortal danger if I had rung the number and been left waiting on the line, only to finally make contact with someone who had no idea what I was on about.}

^{I returned to the emailer who felt sure JR would sort me, advising that JR had not helped – “could you could tell me, onegaishimasu?” Can you actually beg with a smile in an email? I did my best. At last, a breakthrough. Whoever was at the end either took pity on me or got tired of hearing from me! He/She knew the answers to many of my questions and it would have been good if they had been provided in the first place, instead of sending me off on a frustrating wild goose chase!}

^{Finally, I knew enough to take a chance on the Tadami, though there were still missing pieces of the Tadami puzzle. Did Isabella Bird feel unsure too as she set off into the wilds of Japan with so many unanswered questions?}

^{Fast forward to November 4 – a very cold, foggy morning in Aizu Wakamatsu. We were out of bed by 4am, and walked from our nearby hotel to the railway station for a 6.08 am departure. We had been in this Samurai city for three days already, and it turned out to be a highlight of our 2023 trip – see my earlier story-} https://travellingtherese.com/2024/02/07/aizu-wakamatsu-accidental-delight/

^{A chap at the tourist bureau in Aizu Wakamatsu station told me with great seriousness that people were known to line up at 3am to secure seats on the Tadami. I thought that was going a bit too far. Surely not the norm? We resolved to take a chance on 4.45. He failed to mention the station didn’t open until 5, and so we were stuck outside, chilled to the bone, until the doors opened!}

^{We were the first people to arrive, but quickly joined by others. When the train left, it was running two carriages and seemed full.}

^{The fog persisted – so not much to see as we moved away towards Niigata! But we had seats, and yes, the Tadami does have overhead rails for luggage. Ours were medium size suitcases. I wouldn’t advise large suitcases, as I’m not sure they would fit. We settled in for the journey – the only western travellers on board! We had juices and tasty buns packed for our journey as no food or drink trolley is provided. There had been no time for breakfast before boarding.}

^{The fog hovered for some time, and I didn’t know until half way through the trip that I could lower my window to gain photos without a green tinge. Probably best I hadn’t done that as we all might have frozen with the outside early morning air invasion.}

^{The train meandered through valleys, alongside lakes and rivers, passing charming little villages, and a variety of old railway stations – stopping every now and again – sometimes briefly, sometimes for ten minutes or so. But, nothing was announced in english, so we had no way of knowing how long each stop was going to be. We resolutely stayed on board, concerned that if we got off we might get left behind.}

^{Finally, a kindly Japanese man literally pushed us off! He realised what the problem was, and tried to assure us in Japanese that the train was staying awhile at a particular station. With no Japanese language, we didn’t understand what he was saying, though it was clear he wanted us to leave the train and he was very insistent. Finally, another passenger came forward who did speak english, and translated. The man followed us off onto the platform and beckoned me to give him my camera so that he could take photos of MJ and myself. This was an example of the hospitality we so often enjoy from Japanese on our Japan visits.}

^{Underway again, our new Japanese friend seemed to decide he should become my photography manager, directing me to capture various photos en route. I had no idea why he wanted me to take a photo of some places as he had a quality SLR camera himself. His wife kept nodding in agreement, as if to assure me he knew about photography and knew what he was talking about. So I snapped away at a few passing places, and I still don’t know why.}

^{As the train slowly moved through Fukushima towards Niigata prefecture, villagers en route turned out to wave at the train. At one town, they had made straw people, permanently there to greet the train as it passed by!}

^{We also saw train spotters, with their cameras at the ready to capture the Tadami churtling past. I felt they probably achieved better photos than those on the train.}

^{As the fog lifted, the scenery improved – MJ was particularly taken with wild rivers that he felt sure were running with trout!}

^{I thought about Isabella Bird passing this way 145 years earlier, trekking and riding her way through the remote mountains and valleys – risking life and limb crossing flooded rivers. I shouldn’t complain about tinted windows spoiling some of my photos, or the effort to even get on this train, compared to the challenges she faced.}

^{Finally, we pulled into Koide – it was indeed a desolate looking place, and I hoped the local train, booked in Aizu Wakamatsu, would arrive to take us onto our next destination (it did – like clockwork). Koide was one of those old stations with a massive bank of steps to an overhead bridge that would link us to the platform we needed. My poor old knee moaned. No escalator or elevator here.}

^{I spotted a snow plough by the track at the ready – winter would soon be here, and Koide would be knee deep in snow.}

^{Across the tracks from us, a tourist promotion stall had been set up – not, I might add, catering for english speaking tourists (well, there were only two of us LOL). My knee problem meant I was reluctant to tackle the big staircase up and down the overhead bridge again to look at the stall myself. So, I suggested Mike wander across in case there was something on it of interest for us. He couldn’t make head or tail of it, but thought it might have something to do with a skiing facility. Afterwards, I found out that Koide is indeed famous for its ski resort, and that the town is part of the city of Uonuma – a skip, hop and a jump away. Practically around the corner! Facts that would have been handy to have known when I was planning our trip.}

^{I suspect that if I ever came this way again, this old station will be gone, replaced by a swanky new one, with an information centre! The Tadami already arrives with a train load of people three times a day, and other trains use the station. Tourism is opening up in this beautiful area of Japan.}

^{Was the Tadami worth my effort? Yes – and if anyone wants to do this train, contact me – I have a wealth of information about it now!}