^{I don’t often write about my travel accommodations – mainly because they are generally budget hotels, clean, comfortable, and with all the necessities, though nothing unique to write home about.}

^{There are exceptions. Wonderful places I’ve lucked in to experience, some simple abodes with character and charm, others with interesting history. I have fond memories of Guesthouse Kaziya in Iwate – the 1920’s Gamagori Classic hotel – and Oki’s, a small traditional inn run by a lovely couple Oki Taka and Oki Yuka in an old bakery building in a historical Kyoto shopping arcade.}

https://travellingtherese.com/2024/08/06/guesthouse-kaziya-japan/

https://travellingtherese.com/2024/01/07/japans-gamagori-classic-hotel-a-spy-and-baseball/

https://travellingtherese.com/2023/04/26/walking-in-kyotos-shirakawa-community-april-2023-update/

^{If it wasn’t for my difficult knee, I would always choose to stay at Oki’s when in Kyoto. But getting up off the floor from a futon is a challenge these days.}

^{Which brings me to the Hotel Mume, a few blocks from Oki’s and in my favourite Shirakawa community area of Higashiyama-ku. I  first heard of Hotel Mume late in 2023 as an internet whisper, with some guests rating it the best hotel they had ever experienced. It is boutique, with only seven rooms, so it piqued my interest, though I presumed it would be light years away from my price range.}

^{I was amazed to find the price of the lowest cost room was within my budget, especially as it included a scrumptious breakfast, endless complimentary coffees and teas, and a happy hour for free wine, sake, beer etc. Luckily, I was able to book the Mume for our May 2024 visit at around 26,000 yen – $250 Australian a night.}

^{And I secured a return stay for November 2024. The price was slightly higher, but well worth it.}

^{Hotel Mume calls itself a ‘small and enchanting’ hotel. It sites besides the picturesque Shirakawa River – more like a lovely little canal -and it promises that once you ring the bell next to its red door, you will relax and enjoy your stay. Intriguing. I love red doors. I’ve never seen one at a hotel! It beckoned me – like the mysterious hole Alice in Wonderland chased the white rabbit down!}

^{It was indeed unlike any hotel I have ever stayed with, and much of its charm lay with its effervescent owner, Ms Kisako Shibata, and her very cheerful and accommodating staff. No effort is too much to ensure the happiness of their clientele. Truely, if the Emperor stayed, I doubt he’d get better service than me.}

^{The red door into Hotel Mume led me from a narrow traditional street in a safe, walkable area I was already very familiar with from previous Kyoto visits. The street also has a number of antique shops and a discreet restaurant that is Michelin star. The street is also a short stroll into neighbouring Gion, but it’s quiet and unassuming – light years away from busy crowded noisy Gion. Many of Kyoto’s most famous attractions are walking distance too – along with some not so well known, but wonderful. Perfect.}

^{The Mume is difficult to book because of the limited number of its rooms. It is extremely popular, and hashas many repeat customers. But, I enquired well ahead of time and went on a waiting list for both my bookings, luckily securing stays! Well worth the effort and wait.}

^{Check in is at 3pm. We arrived around 11.30am on our first visit to drop off our luggage. The little red door beckoned, and as soon as we rang the bell, we were welcomed in by staff as if we were long lost, much loved family returning home.}

^{Rather than taking our luggage and ushering us back out the red door – remember, we were three and a half hours early – they offered us complimentary refreshments in the hotel’s beautiful little lounge/dining area, sitting by a window overlooking the river. A latte for me, tea for him, and exquisite little biscuits.}

^{We were about to take our leave when we were told our room was now ready! In Japan, it is extremely unusual to be allowed into your room before check in time. So this was one of our many pleasant surprises at Hotel Mume.}

^{For both our stays, we had the MOON room – about 22 square metres – the smallest of the rooms at the Mume – and like an exquisite little package. Beautiful decor, and a tiny, but lovely ensuite with a toilet that was a notch above any other I’d seen in Japan. Not only did the lid automatically swing open as you entered the ensuite, but there was a button on the wall for blokes to lift and close the seat automatically!}

^{The ceiling was pressed tin, a feature I’m familiar with old homes in Australia, but have never seen in Japan before. The room facilities included a CD player, a selection of popular (western) music, ironing equipment, a sewing kit and a flat screen TV.}

^{Our breakfast, included in the tariff, was delicious. Freshly cut seasonal fruit, ultra fresh croissants and other bakery goods, beautiful jams, a cold fruity morning soup, juice and whatever coffee/tea you desired.}

^{On our first night in May, Ms Kisako Shibata suggested we take a walk to see the fireworks. Well, that’s what I thought she said. I misheard. It turned out to be fireflies!}

^{We had lucked in on a very short time that fireflies appear along the waterways near the hotel. Magic, indeed! MJ even gently caught a few in his hand, marvelling at them before releasing them. Better than fireworks!}

^{So if you are there in May, watch out for them at night! It only happens in this part of Kyoto in May.}

^{Hotel Mume impressed me so much that before leaving I mentioned our proposed return trip to Japan in November (2024), still barely on the planning board, and asked about the chances of getting another booking. Our hostess shook her head – the waiting list was already long – and our chances slim.}

^{As soon as we returned home, I formally applied to the waiting list – and – forward thinking produced magic again – we secured not only our booking, but a booking for a friend travelling with us. Once again, we were welcomed like family!}

^{Hotel Mume’s red door beckons – and perhaps we will get to ring that magic bell again one day!}

UPDATE DECEMBER 2024: I have a lot of stories about new places we went to on our November trip, and will be writing about them in the next few months.

https://www.hotelmume.com/main.html