Japan overtourism? NOT what I see.

Lately there’s been a loud buzz about overtourism in Japan, particularly since Covid. I have now been to Japan seven times – four times since Covid – the latest in May this year – 2025. And the majority of the time MJ and I spend in Japan, we see very few other western tourists. Certainly, not the overwhelming tourist numbers talked about in the media.

It’s not that we head for some remote place and hide ourselves there. Nor are we intrepid travellers, climbing mountains, trekking long pilgrim routes and accessing places other tourists find it difficult to reach. We travel by rail, bus and the occasional taxi. We neither speak or read Japanese, beyond some polite words such as please, thank you and ‘may I take your photograph’.

Simply put: we mainly travel in areas away from the well publicised places where tourists are swarming to, generally limiting themselves to repeating other people’s experiences instead of exploring and finding their own Japan.

A Japanese survey last year of foreign tourists, including Australians, the USA, other areas of Asia and Europe, showed 97 percent of the respondents were interested in visiting Japan’s regional areas, but less than 10 percent of them had been there.

You can count me in that small percentage, as I travel widely with MJ within Japan to experience its many wonderful regions. We generally avoid the ‘Instagram’ hot spots in Japan that are most likely to attract big international tourist numbers. I find there are an abundance of other ‘instagrammable’ places in Japan, and I do wonder why more visitors to Japan aren’t reaching out to find them. Spread out more widely, instead of congregating in a few famous spots! Create your own special memories and happy photos!

I didn’t really need a survey to know that over tourism is limited to a very small area of Japan. Frankly, I have no need to see the famous road crossing in Tokyo’s busy Shibuya or to take a photo that everyone is taking of Mount Fuji behind a convenience store! I have been to the famous bamboo forest in Arashiyama back in 2017 – crowded then, but not insanely so as it is now. I also have since learnt that bamboo thrives in Japan, to the point of overwhelming some places – and I’m going to see it even if I give the Arashiyama tourist hot spot a miss!

I have been to Kyoto’s famous Gion area before it became so overcrowded with tourists. Going shoulder to shoulder with them is not for me, though my favourite place to stay in Kyoto is only several streets away in a much quieter and more genteel neighbouring area.

A favourite area of ours in Kyoto – full of museums, galleries, shops and parks – walking distance from Gion

Gion reminds me of sheep herded in the one yard, trying to eat from the one trough. They fail to enjoy the surrounding beautiful pastures! There are so many other interesting places within walking distance of Gion, yet the majority of western tourists don’t go there. Perhaps an answer to Kyoto’s current over tourism crisis is to promote these lesser known areas more, ensuring they are easily accessible.

I am well past the age of hitting the big night time party areas of Tokyo and Osaka – an enjoyable evening meal with a few glasses of sake or back to the hotel with a stash of convenience store or bakery treats is more me. I’m early to bed and an early starter for my next day – on my latest trip I averaged at least 8 kilometres of walking a day – yes, even with my failed knee replacement.

There are perfectly sane areas of these big Japanese cities with wonderful sights and experiences. So, don’t avoid them. Simply seek out the lesser known areas. You will be surprised at their many hidden treats. Tokyo, for instance, offers some lovely boat trips on its many ancient canals and rivers, and it’s full of parklands to explore. You just need to think outside the box, or ask a local – where’s a great area to see? I’ve discovered many interesting places by posing that very question – usually using google translate. What a travel gamechanger that is!

Nihonbashi, Tokyo – close to Tokyo Station

For most of my Tokyo stays, I have been based in the Kyobashi/Nihonbashi area, walking distance from Tokyo station. This district is amongst the most ancient areas of Tokyo, closely associated with old Edo and the Shogun’s castle where the Imperial Palace now stands. They are both ultra modern smart looking suburbs now. I’ve read that some people find them sterile areas of Tokyo. Perhaps they are not looking past their nose. Delve into history, dive into their laneways – enjoy a journey of discovery. Look closely and you’ll find plenty of links to the past and a local population of residents passionate about the area. Nihonbashi, by the way, is also the starting point for some of those excellent canal cruises.

A friend travelling with us on her first trip to Japan likened these two areas to Paris and New York. There’s that sort of feel. Think wide avenues, lined with flower beds and trees, small boats traversing waterways, many stylishly dressed people, elegant shops and plenty of upmarket eateries. Some shops trace their lineage back hundreds of years. Accommodation prices in these areas have risen sharply over the last few years, so search for a bargain.

Ginza turns into a pedestrian mall on weekend afternoons and public holidays.

Both of these areas are within walking distance to the famous Ginza upmarket shopping area – I love walking there early in the morning before the stores open, window gazing. Or on weekends, when the main street of Ginza transforms into pedestrian mall, full of couples and families – old and young.

Tokyo is the starting point for all of my trips into the lesser known areas of Japan. New territory for me last November included Okayama – an interesting city, south of Kyoto, with a superb 1600’s garden, a neat little castle – it’s not the original, but its guard houses are – and lots of delicious food. I’m not a vegetarian, but we did eat twice at an excellent vegetarian cafe close to the main railway station. I do focus a lot on enjoying Japanese eateries! And please take note: I have only had sushi in Japan a few times. And I’m not keen on fish. There’s an abundance of other delicious food to eat in Japan.

Okayama also is excellent as a base for day trips to other areas, such as the gorgeous nearby canal town of Kurashiki. It was one of two picturesque canal towns we visited on this trip. The other, Sawara in Chiba prefecture, was surprisingly close to Narita airport. Not as well known as Kurashiki, but I preferred it. We based ourselves at Narita city for our last two nights in Japan, visiting Sawara for the day by rail, and being shown around by a volunteer english speaking guide! We saw no other western tourist on our visit! Narita also has one of the most impressive temples in Japan. Hotels are very reasonably priced and many offer free bus shuttles to Narita airport.

Sawara canal town in Chiba prefecture – charming and largely unknown to western tourists
A professional photo shoot underway to promote the charms of Sawara

On our 2024 NOVEMBER visit I visited Shikoku for the first time – the fourth biggest island in Japan. If you want an original castle, Shikoku has it – one of the best I’ve seen. A day cruise to smaller islands off Shikoku in the Seto Inland sea reminded me of Greece. Rustic coastal villages stretching up into steep hills from the sea. Don’t ask me how I managed with my knee to get up those hills! Or down again! Where the is a will, there is a way!

Shikoku has a fascinating mountainous inland area that I didn’t have time to explore. A good reason to return.

A cafe on a Seto Inland sea island – we saw no other western tourists there

The Japanese autumn trip also took me to the other side of Japan to the prefecture of Shimane, and the beautiful city of Matsue, with its glorious waterways. One of the gems of Japan. And an outstanding place for sunsets – the one I enjoyed by the City’s beautiful Shimane Arts Museum looking out to Lake Shinji, took my breath away and will forever be etched in my memory.

Sunset at the Shimane Arts Museum looking out to Lake Shinji

A classic garden at the ADACHI Museum of Art near Matsue was unlike any other. You can’t walk in this garden. You view most of it through large windows – framed like an exquisite painting. It can get packed with visitors, mostly from Japan and other parts of Asia – but we beat the crowd by getting out and about very early in the morning to be there when the doors opened.

The outstanding Adachi Museum of Art near Matsue

There was a return in November 2024 to a few of my favourite places, still yielding new treats. I’ve been visiting Takayama in Gifu since 2002, and it is becoming a tourist hotspot for those venturing into the regions. But they seem to mainly congregate at the old town area and the morning markets. Get an early start to visit the markets and you can beat them. Then go on to explore other areas of Takayama, or head to the nearby beautiful old town of Hida Furukawa, a little Edo era sibling of Takayama, and accessible by a short rail journey. I cannot rave on about Hida Furukawa enough. You’ll find a separate story about it in this blog.

A fairly empty train for the half hour journey to Hida Furukawa from Takayama.
Hida Furukawa

We also took a very scenic bus ride from Takayama through the Alps through to Matsumoto in Nagano prefecture. Definitely worth the $40 (Australian) fare.

20 minute stop en route on a bus trip across the Alps

In May this year – 2025 – we returned to Japan once more – heading north of Tokyo as far as ABASHIRI in Hokkaido. Again, we saw very few other western tourists. You will find some of my stories about this latest trip already up on my blog and they might give you a few ideas for your own plans for Japan.

An eighth trip to Japan for me? At 73, I take each year as it comes. But there are still so many places I want to experience in Japan, so much still to explore away from the more well known tourist areas. Mmmm….ok ..my planning brain is already whirling!

Finally: Thank you for reading my blogs, and a special thanks to those who leave a like, a comment or even questions. I love feedback.

Okayama has the Christmas spirit

2 comments

  1. I enjoy reading your posts about the non-touristy bits of Japan. Would love to be travelling like you with my wonky knees when i’m 70+ too! Hope you continue to remain healthy and be able to travel to all the places in your list =)

    Like

    • Thank you. We will be getting into some very non-touristy places on our next trip – well, at least for free wheeling Western tourists. The challenge: get those suitcases even lighter than before and try to avoid staircases LOL!

      Like

Leave a comment