^{If you are into castles, Japan is the place to visit. It’s not up there with Germany and other European countries in the number of castles it has, but you will find about 200 to visit, with interesting histories and designs to explore.}

^{Most reproductions are brilliant replicas of originals. But if you are seeking the truely authentic, there are twelve “original Japanese castles” that survived the post-feudal era since 1868 intact.}

^{I’ve been to four originals. Matsumoto Castle in Nagano prefecture is my favourite. I love to visit particularly at dawn and sunset for photos.}

^{A close second is Matsuyama castle, a very complex fortress with soaring 4 meter high granite stone walls, built in the early 1600’s on Shikoku Island, Japan’s fourth biggest island. It took about 25 years to complete, incorporating the latest defensive technologies of the time.}

^{I visited on a day trip last November with husband MJ and our Canadian friend Sandy, travelling by rail from Shikoku’s Takamatsu city to Matsuyama – the capital of Ehime Prefecture in western Shikoku.}

^{Usually we start off very early on a day trip, and I can’t recall why we didn’t on this occasion. But our later start was a mistake as we had no time to explore the city of Matsuyama, and we were almost left stranded there for a night!}

^{The train journey takes 2.5 hours from Takamatsu – a 5 hour return trip. So that’s quite a chunk out of a day trip. The coastal route wasn’t as picturesque as I expected – there’s a lot of settlement and industry along the way. But it was pleasant enough.}

^{As we approached Matsuyama, we spotted the castle perched majestically on top of Mount Katsuyama, a steep hill in the city center. It provided samurai with an excellent view not only over the city, but of any possible enemies approaching via the Seto Inland sea.}

^{There is a trail going up to the castle with so many twists and turns, any enemy would be fairly stuffed by the time they reached the top. Deliberately planned that way by the samurai. You can try it yourself, but there is an easier option of a chairlift or cable car.}

^{The old samurai path is an indication of what’s to come. This is a castle cleverly designed and engineered as an unassailable fortress. It’s a well planned maze of walls behind walls, buildings and a variety of fortifications allowing samurai inside to fend off enemies with rocks, arrows and even guns. Mirrors upon mirrors. If you are into first class castle defence design, this is the one to explore!}

^{With the castles I’d been to previously, it was mainly a matter of going in the front gate and then up into the main building – up, up and up. But Matsuyama was designed in a quite different way than I’d seen before. You are going to do a fair bit of walking and a little climbing to explore it properly.}

^{An example of the castle’s inspired design is a ‘blind’ gate hidden from the view of anyone approaching the front main gate. The idea was that if the enemy made it that far, warriors in the castle would leave via the hidden gate and come in behind the enemy in a pincer movement. Clever! When you arrive, walk past the main gate, and the hidden gate will be revealed. You can enter the castle grounds by either gate.}

^{I took time to watch other people, and see how many noticed the hidden gate. Hardly any! They mostly trawled through the front gate, and didn’t know what they had missed.}

^{I only knew about it because I’d seen a programme about the castle on NHK World TV. There’s other minor gates too in the castle grounds, and an array of interesting features designed to hold off attacks and survive a siege.}

^{Ironically, Matsuyama was never directly attacked in Samurai times. Perhaps its reputation was too fearsome. The only successful ‘assaults’ came unexpectedly from the skies – firstly from a bolt of lightning in a thunderstorm that destroyed its five storied castle tower. This was replaced with a three storied tower in 1820. And secondly, eleven buildings within the castle grounds were destroyed in a WW2 air raid.}

^{The castle grounds sprawl over the entire mountain top and still includes many heritage listed buildings.}

^{The castle’s greatest danger today is the hill it sits on. Just months before my visit last year, a major land slip occurred during heavy rainfalls on the castle’s north slope, with complex repairs still underway when I was there in November. Three people sadly died when a house below was engulfed by the landslip.}

Getting there

^{The JR railway station in Matsuyama has plenty of signage in English, and an excellent Information centre with English speaking staff to assist arrivals.}

^{From the station, you can easily catch a tram up towards the castle. The trams range from modern ones to delightful vintage ones with wooden floors!}

^{Once off the tram, you walk along a slightly uphill street where you access the old walking trail, the cable car or the chairlift up to the castle grounds. The walk from the tram stop to the cable car/chairlifts doesn’t take long, unless you are diverted by all the interesting shops en route. I spotted this tiny book shop below, packed into a small space as we walked up to the castle!}

^{I thought I’d shop along the street on my way back from the castle, but we realised we were going to run out of time for our return train journey. So no shopping for me in Matsuyama!}

^{We did take time for a ramen lunch after our castle visit, and then we headed back to catch the tram to the station. Big mistake here – we foolishly thought all the trams would be heading to the station, not realising there are two railway stations in Matsuyama! You guessed it – we weren’t heading to the JR station! Our tram deposited us at the other station!}

^{So this is where we did the great run! A race to the JR station in time to catch our train. I don’t recommend this bit! As we started, it seemed impossible to reach the JR station for our departure. No Olympian has put in a more determined effort!}

^{Should we have got a taxi? Our first thought, but we couldn’t see any about – just when you need one and all that jazz! So, in a panic, we ran. Or rather I hobbled along as fast as I could behind MJ and Sandy. MJ did a brilliant job, consulting his phone map to find back street shortcuts! I think at one point I shouted to them to get on the train and not wait for me. I’d find somewhere to stay, and return the next day. Brave? I think my mind was simply not thinking straight, and I was trailing a fair way behind the two of them with the old crook knee hampering my effort.}

^{We all made it, thankfully, with little time to spare! Which brings me back to my earlier thought! We should have set off earlier from Takamatsu for this day trip! Everything was just a little too tight. Staying in Matsuyama would be a better idea to ensure plenty of time explore the city, and to do side trips to neighbouring areas. I’m sure there is a lot more to offer the visitor in this area of the world.}

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