Returning to Japan – May 2026 update

Hakone by Lake Ashi – Fuji in the far background – 2019

Later this year I will travel to Japan for my tenth holiday there – all self planned trips taken over the past few decades or so. And, as usual, my camera gear will be with me.

I have had a camera in my hand since I was given one for Christmas when I was about nine, and a camera has been with me on all my travels since – sometimes two of them! It’s always a dilemma packing – what can I leave behind to make way for my cameras and lenses! I have embraced the phone camera to a point. I find them particularly excellent for photographing food.

My first camera – early ’60’s

Over the last half century, I have travelled extensively around the world, experienced remarkable places, and met amazing people. I’ve lived for a year in Calgary, Canada and for two years in Wellington, New Zealand. I’ve been to the USA briefly a few times, visiting California and Texas. In Australia, I’ve travelled to every State and Territory, worked in Tasmania,South Australia and Western Australia , and spent some months in Sydney, New South Wales on a work related training course.

I know what it’s like to stay in a five star hotel – to travel in a van – travel with a backpack and a tent – and to be kindly invited to tea in the courtyard of a simple mud brick two room home with dirt floors that housed two families – the mud brick hospitality from a poor family in a small village in Iran stands out in my memory – the five star experiences not so much.

In late life, Japan has become my favourite destination. I had a Japanese pen friend in high school, and briefly considered travelling there in the 1970’s. I’ve pondered over how much I would have enjoyed it when I was first embarking on international travel when I was 19. I have concluded that perhaps I would not have, as it was a lot more difficult for young foreigners on a tight budget to travel within Japan at that time. No cheap youth hostels, which I favoured in Europe. I’m told that Japanese back then were more wary of foreigners, and that very little english was available. On both sides, there was a lot less understanding and consideration of cultural differences than there is today.

Climbing in NZ seemed easier than organising a trip to Japan in the 1970’s

Researching a trip to Japan then was challenging, with no internet and very little tourist information available in Australia. Travel agencies offered tours, but nothing for a young traveller on a minimalist budget. And I had no contacts there. For an Aussie girl, with limited funds, and mostly travelling alone, those difficulties seemed insurmountable. So instead I explored some of Australia first on a month long bus tour, and later headed across to New Zealand. Later I moved onto Europe, And as my travelling experience and prowess improved, I travelled in the Middle East, Central Asia, Pakistan and India – even making it as far as Katmandu in Nepal. Perthaps Japan in the 1970’s may have been a breeze after-all.

I should explain that as a young Journalist I earnt a very reasonable salary, particularly with penalty rates for working weekends and public holidays. I worked every Xmas and New Year’s Day as a single woman – double the pay! And I volunteered for relief duty in other cities – more extra earnings. I didn’t smoke or do drugs – what a waste of money! Instead, I poured as much of my salary that I could into my travel funds. Journalists in Australia also had six weeks holiday a year – lots of travel time – and at 23, my employer granted me a year’s leave without pay to go travelling. For someone who loved travelling, mine was the ideal job!

I photographed this sheep herder in Greece/1970’s
My photo of a main road going into Kabul/1970’s – when peace reigned

It wasn’t until 2002 that I finally organised a self guided trip in Japan for myself and my sons on three weeks notice. One son was graduating University, the other completing his University entrance exams. So a spur of the moment decision for a celebration trip landed us in Japan! Qantas back then was offering direct flights from Western Australia to Tokyo.

Husband MJ was working, so he couldn’t come with us. Lonely Planet was my principal guide, and by then, I was able to research on the Internet. We mainly stayed at family friendly ryokans, using the JAPAN RYOKAN & HOTEL ASSOCIATION as a guide. The Association still operates today, and I highly recommend it.

Sons in front of the Royal Palace, Kyoto more than 20 yrs ago

Times for tourists in Japan were quite different in 2002 from now. No crushing crowds in prime tourist attractions. We turned up at the Royal Palace in Kyoto with no booking late one afternoon and were able to join the last walking tour of the grounds for the day immediately! And Shirakawa- go – that beautiful thatched home village in Gifu – wasn’t mentioned when we visited Takayama. I think it was still difficult to reach back then as the current highway wasn’t built. It was yet to become the major tourist attraction it is today.

It helped on that first trip that my youngest son spoke some limited Japanese, and had already been to Japan on a high school trip. Although I did have to show him the old fashioned benefits of pointing to a map and improvised sign language to get directions!

Cycling in Hida Fukushima, near Takayama – Gifu, 2017 – this company still offers bike tours

On retirement, MJ suggested I organise another Japan visit for us. Luckily, he loved it as much as I do! So, we had three weeks in 2017, and three weeks in 2019. Another three week trip planned for 2020 was torpedoed by Covid. We have moved since to a few visits a year where possible to catch up. At our age, time is short!

Old weaving techniques demonstrated in the Hida Village, Takayama
Passing by this restaurant in Tokyo – this lady kindly posed for my camera

In May 2022, we were finally back in Japan following the pandemic with an autumn visit. Autumn is a brilliant time to visit Japan! My camera goes a little crazy capturing the colours! Both spring and autumn also are wonderful times for birdwatching in Japan.

We have long since moved beyond the well trodden tourist track. So we seem to be staying ahead of the main tourist packs!

At our late age, with knees and other joints weakening, we are accelerating our travels before time runs out! Already, a failed knee replacement several years ago has slowed me down. But we still manage to get into some of Japan’s choice nature areas for the scenery and bird life – and, of course, to meet more local people. We are always equipped with our bear bells for these areas. I would love to see bears from afar, but not too close!

Trekking at Kamikochi in the Chubu Sangaku National Park, Hida Mountain Range (The Northern Japan Alps)
Tea house stop when hiking the Nasendo trail in the Kiso Valley – British actress Joanna Lumley had been there too!

Looking back on my travels over the last half century, it hasn’t necessarily been the sights or the array of wonderful food and culture along the way that have enthralled me. Or the sense of achievement in meeting the challenges of travel both within Australia and overseas.

It’s been the people I’ve met. Kind, generous, interesting, wonderful people. The amazing rich quilt of humanity that I’ve been so privileged to experience. I have found it’s really important to understand and respect local cultures and the people. Respect when travelling is essential, along with a smile.

India or Pakistan – I think it was in Pakistan. But can’t recall what the location was.
I think I took this in Iran – one of my favourites.
This couple were at the gardens next to Himeji castle having their wedding pics taken – they kindly posed for my camera too!
My wonderful 1970’s Xmas on a house boat in Kashmir. These are the house boat boys who ferried me about
Hida village, Takayama – first visited in 2002 – many visits since!
Met this english speaking senior skier at the tail end of the ski season in the Japanese Alps in 2019.
Kurds passing by in southern Turkey.. A father and daughter from this caravan also posed for my camera. He asked me if I would take the photo. No internet then .. no way to send him the picture when I processed the film.
The free tea room/rest area on the Nakasendo hike between Magome and Tsumago – MJ with a fellow hiker
Indian policemen posed for my Pentax film camera in the 1970’s
Baker in Iran, close to the Turkish border. I recall it was a Kurdish bakery – I can still recall the beautiful aroma of freshly baked bread there.
Bus stop break between Kandahar and and Kabul. I was travelling on a public bus,seen here in the background

This year I turn 74 – and MJ and I are still travelling with plans to visit Japan again and a visit to my home state Tasmania. Stay tuned – more travel stories and adventures ahead. I still enjoy spending months researching and putting together our trips. I absolutely love it when I come across little unknown gems

I know younger people these days turn to AI to put their journeys together in a jiffy. It all looks very slick. So instant. But I’m not from that generation. I find it AI trip planning akin to going to a travel agent back in the day and saying ‘I’d like to go there. Can you plan an itinerary for me and tell me what hotels to stay at’. Lead me by the nose and I will follow LOL! For me, part of the travel fun is the time I spend researching and discovering for myself. And the sense of achievement when my hard work pays off with a good journey.

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