Winter magic – South Coast Western Australia

A little aussie rules football on an Albany beach

Sometimes a travelling treasure is right in your backyard! One of my favourite local holidays is in Albany, on West Australia’s south coast – about a four and a half hour drive from our home.

Albany was founded in 1826 as a British military outpost to prevent French expansion in Western Australia, and it is the oldest continuously settled European town in the State. It can be very cold and very wet, and it is WA’s closest city to snow! Yes, it does snow in Western Australia – just enough to build a teeny weeny snowman if you climb a mountain to reach it! The very occasionally snow capped Stirling Ranges are about 80 kilometres from Albany. Yes, I have climbed up Bluff Knoll in snow on a previous winter many moons ago before older age and my knee presented problems.

Bluff Knoll – we used to have family climbing holidays here every October school holidays with our sons
The road to the base car park at Bluff Knoll, the highest peak in WA’s Stirling ranges. I’ve been to the summit more times than I can remember! Spring brings thousands of fabulous wildflowers throughout this region.
Our sons on a previous trip to the Stirling Ranges, setting off to climb Bluff Knoll.

It didn’t snow for our visit last week. While Albany is famous for its cold, wet winters, we lucked in on three beautiful sunny days. Still chilly, but nice for exploring.

The small regional city is full of well preserved homes and buildings from the 1800’s and early 1900’s. It has one of the most magnificent harbours in Australia – King George Sound – a beautiful 110 square kilometre natural oceanic harbour with islands and rugged peninsulas. Mid winter is whale season – southern rights and humpbacks are passing through. It’s quite a sight from both the shore and whale watching boats.

Water for dogs and seagulls at Middleton Beach, Albany

In November 1914, the first convoy of Australian troops heading for the Middle East and Europe gathered in the Sound to join up with troop ships from New Zealand. I was in Albany some years ago, with ships and little boats filling the inner harbour to commemorate the event. On top of a hill overlooking the harbour is a museum dedicated to WW1. On entry you are assigned a soldier or nurse, and see their journey through the War. For many, Albany was the last place in Australia they saw – never to return.

Albany also had the last whaling station in Australia. It closed down in 1978 – the year I moved to WA from Tasmania. I went to see it shortly after the closure and the terrible smell of slaughtered whales still lingered Today the whaling station has transformed into a museum about whaling. You can even go onto an original whaling boat.

The last Australian whaling ship now part of a whaling museum at Albany

We took a look last week, and it was pleasing to see whales passing and frolicking in the bay – free and safe. Whale season in Albany runs from June through to September.

The highlight of our visit last week was a 35 kilometre drive from Albany to explore Two People’s Bay and Little Bay. We had never ventured there before on previous Albany visits. The bays are both part of a Nature Reserve, so there is a cost to go in. $17 AUD for standard vehicles, and $10 for concession holders including seniors. $10 for motorcycles. You could walk or cycle in free, but it’s a long way from anywhere, and you can’t overnight there. No accommodation and no camping.

Is the fee worth it? Absolutely! This is a glorious part of the West Australian coast for swimming, bushwalking, canoeing – we spotted more whales here to my delight. And I was pleased my ‘still in recovery mode’ knee was able to handle a bit of scrambling up and down bush paths!

74 – still exploring!
Bush public toilet!

Back in Albany, we found a delightful new French patisserie cafe that recently opened in a 1930’s house. Yes, french chef! The city is very laid back, with award winning wineries and some excellent eateries. The region is also famous for its sheep and cattle that run free range within extensive fenced paddocks. We stayed at Middleton Beach, just out of the town centre. I like it as there is a cafe there offering house made pastries and bread, and excellent morning coffee! Just the ticket when you are in holiday mode.

Wildlife – there’s plenty. On this trip we spotted wild emus near the roadside and wild horses – we Aussies call them brumbies – by Lake Muir en route to Albany. Unfortunately, there’s currently a call for them to be culled as they present a danger on the roads. But they are beautiful to see! As for emus – take care not to run into one. Once, when we were driving near Albany, we came across a car that had collided with an emu. The car did not fare well, and the highway looked like a mountain of feather doonas/duvets had exploded along it!

Albany has an abundance of pelicans too! My favourite water bird. This one I photographed seemed to have collected a fishing hook! Can you spot it? He seemed ok. As was our trip to Albany – more than ok – a delightful winter mini holiday in our backyard!

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